Frostborn German Shepherds
Quality Dogs from Quality Bloodlines
So, you’re considering a German Shepherd puppy! Congratulations! Get ready for a roller coaster ride—these dogs have a way of grabbing your heartstrings and making you laugh, even while getting into mischief.
Here are some of my key recommendations to help your puppy become a well-rounded and wonderful part of your family:
​​
Include your puppy in your daily activities
Let your puppy be involved in whatever you’re doing around the house. German Shepherds are incredibly smart and will learn even when you’re not actively teaching them. Once your puppy has completed all vaccinations, take him for walks off your property, and let him meet lots of people and other dogs. (And remember, never leave pets in hot cars!) Visit pet-friendly stores and bring him along as often as you can—it will pay off in the long run. A well-socialized German Shepherd is a joy, while an unsocialized one can be challenging. Socialization won’t lessen his protective instincts; instead, it will help him better understand who is a threat and who isn’t. It's crucial for your puppy to understand not just what you don’t want, but also what you do want. Always remember to reward your puppy when he does something right.​
​
Enroll in puppy classes
​
Whether you’re new to puppy ownership or a seasoned dog owner, puppy classes are a great way to establish a bond with your new companion. It’s also a fantastic opportunity for socialization. A good trainer will teach you how to train your puppy in the basics and help you understand how to think like a puppy, which will be invaluable for future training. Hopefully, the tips that follow will help you with some of the immediate basics.
Crate Training
Why Crate Train?
​
Proper crate training provides a safe environment for your puppy and continues to benefit your dog into adulthood. Here’s why having your dog feel happy, comfortable, and secure in a crate is a good thing. Many people think crate training is mean, but it’s not about locking your dog away—it's about making the crate his happy place, where he chooses to go even when the door is open. And it doesn’t have to be forever; once your dog is comfortable with the crate and is safe to be left uncrated, you can replace it with a bed.
​
Keeps Your Puppy Safe and Out of Trouble
​
Puppies are curious and can get into everything—just ask anyone who has recently had one. While you could gate your puppy in the kitchen or bathroom, there’s always a risk they’ll get into something dangerous like cleaning supplies, chew electrical cords, or damage valuable items. Keeping your puppy in a crate isn’t mean—it’s a safe way to keep him out of trouble and can also aid in house training.
​
Reduces Stress During Vet Visits
If your dog ever needs to stay at the vet, being comfortable in a crate can significantly reduce his stress. The vet’s office can be intimidating enough, and if your dog is already used to being crated, it will help him feel more relaxed. Your vet will appreciate it, too, as it makes their job easier and less stressful for your dog.
​
Helps During Injury or Recovery
If your dog ever gets injured and needs to be inactive for an extended period, being familiar with the crate can turn a potentially stressful situation into a manageable one. A crate-trained dog will be more comfortable resting, which is crucial for recovery.
​
Crate Tips
​
The crate should be large enough to accommodate your dog when he’s fully grown; I recommend at least a 42-inch crate. These crates usually come with a divider, which is useful for adjusting the space as your puppy grows. Using the divider helps discourage accidents since puppies tend to avoid going where they sleep. If the crate is too spacious, however, the puppy may go inside, so be sure to adjust the divider accordingly.
​
Place the crate in a permanent spot before bringing your puppy home. Choose a location that’s comfortable for you and near the area where you spend most of your time, as the crate will be there for a while. If your puppy will be sleeping in your bedroom, consider using a smaller crate near your bed until he’s reliably potty trained and sleeping through the night. German Shepherds like to be close to their people, even when resting.
​
Start crate training as early as possible by tossing treats into the crate and letting your puppy go in and explore. When he gets sleepy, as puppies often do, place him inside with a few small treats and close the door. If he whines, don’t reward the behavior by opening the door—he’ll eventually settle down and go to sleep. Be patient; it may happen quickly, or it might take some time. Try to be present when he wakes up, but don’t let him get whiny or upset before letting him out; otherwise, you might reinforce unwanted behavior. Instead, open the door as soon as he’s awake and take him outside immediately! Eventually, he will wake up calmly, but at first, the crate might feel a little confining, so you don’t want him to associate it with distress. (See also: House Training.)
​
Never use the crate as a form of punishment. It should always be a safe, positive space. If you need to crate your puppy while you’re busy, leave him with a safe toy to keep him occupied. A Kong stuffed with something tasty and frozen is a great choice—it also helps soothe teething.
​
Safety Considerations
Young puppies are notorious chewers. For safety reasons, it might be necessary to avoid providing a blanket inside the crate, as some puppies will chew and swallow pieces, which can lead to blockages. It’s not cruel for them to lie on the crate’s plastic bottom. Be cautious about the toys you leave inside, and always remove his collar when he’s in the crate.
​
Respect Your Puppy’s Space
At some point, your puppy may start choosing the crate as his quiet place when he needs downtime—whether he’s tired or bothered by something. This needs to be HIS space. Teach children that when the puppy is in his crate, he should be left alone. If you want him to come out, encourage him gently with a treat. The goal is to make the crate his safe place to relax.
House Training
​
Designate a specific potty spot in your yard where you’d like your puppy to go in the future and start using it as soon as you bring him home. When you get out of the car, take him straight to this spot, wait for him to pee, then praise him and give him a treat. If he pees anywhere else outside, reward him anyway—getting him to go outside is the main goal! House training a puppy is all about repetition and consistency, even if it seems pointless at first.
​
Once he’s done his business, you can introduce him to his new home. Your success in potty training will depend on how much attention you pay to his signals. Puppies often squat quickly and without warning, especially when they’re young. Older puppies might sniff around for a quiet spot before going. If you catch him in the act or sense he’s about to go, make a loud noise (like shouting “NO NO NO!”), scoop him up immediately, and take him outside to the designated potty spot. Keep a leash by the door for this reason—attach it quickly, but don’t put him down until you reach the spot. Wait there until he finishes, then praise and reward him.
​
Take your puppy outside right after he wakes up (this ties into crate training) and immediately after he eats, always going straight to the potty spot without stopping to play. If he has an accident inside, avoid rubbing his nose in it—it’s ineffective and unpleasant for both of you. If you’re busy and can’t watch him closely, either put him in his crate for a nap or find a way to keep him nearby; some owners even tether their puppies to them to maintain supervision. The more you catch him in the act, the faster he’ll learn. Each time he pees indoors without being caught, he falls behind a bit. If you don’t see him pee, punishing him later won’t help; he won’t understand what he did wrong. You must catch him before or during the act and gently correct him.
​
At 9 weeks old, puppies can hold their bladder overnight (7-8 hours), but they still need to learn how. Initially, you may need to get up during the night, but this usually doesn’t last more than a few days.
​
During the first few months, use a specific “Go Potty!” word, phrase, or sound whenever you see him peeing. Over time, this cue can be used to ask him to go on command, but you need to teach him what it means by associating it with the act. This doesn’t necessarily require treats if you time it correctly and consistently—he’ll naturally associate the phrase with peeing. This can be especially useful in bad weather, while traveling, or when visiting unfamiliar places where you need him to go in a specific spot. You can also use a different word, phrase, or sound for when he goes number two, training him in the same manner.
Food and Feeding
​
Your puppy has been free feeding with his littermates, so transitioning to scheduled meals may take a few days. I recommend starting with three meals a day and gradually moving to two as he gets older. Begin by offering the full portion for that feeding time and allow your puppy a few minutes to eat. He might find eating less exciting without the competition from his siblings, but if he becomes distracted and doesn’t finish within a few minutes, pick up the food and wait until the next scheduled feeding time to try again. He’ll quickly learn that he needs to eat when the food is available.
​
Foods to Avoid
-
Chocolate
-
Onions (raw or cooked)
-
Cooked bones (even beef bones—raw bones are fine, including chicken bones)
-
Xylitol (a sweetener found in some peanut butters, gums, and other foods—always check labels)
-
Grapes and raisins
-
Alcohol
​
Recommended Diet
Raw Diet (Preferred Choice)
I highly recommend a well-balanced raw diet, as it best suits a dog's natural dietary needs. There are high-quality premixed raw varieties available, or you can create your own mix if you have the time—just ensure it’s properly balanced. This diet supports white teeth, fresh breath, minimal odor, and poop that disintegrates quickly, along with an unbelievably shiny coat. While feeding raw is the best way to help your dog look and feel its best, it is also the most expensive option. Some kibble companies discourage mixing raw and kibble, but it has been proven that there is no harm in doing so. Even if you can only incorporate raw occasionally, it’s better than not at all. I personally feed a mix of raw and kibble to my adult dogs.
​
High-Quality Kibble (Second Choice)
My second choice is a good quality kibble. I feed Acana, but there are many other excellent brands available, which can vary by region. Each dog has individual needs, so you may need to try a couple of brands before finding the best fit for your dog. A good kibble should promote a shiny coat, healthy teeth, and smaller, less odorous pouchier kibbles can lead to brittle fur, large and smelly poop, gas, ear infections, yeast infections, bad breath, and dental issues, among other health problems. Feeding low-quality kibble is like eating fast food every day versus maintaining a healthy, balanced diet.
​
Variety of Proteins
Throughout your dog’s life, I recommend varying the protein sources in their diet—rotate between beef, chicken, fish, etc. Many high-quality brands offer a variety of proteins, including kangaroo, duck, and pork. This not only helps keep your dog interested in their meals but also ensures a broader range of nutrients.
Leash Training
​
When you bring your puppy home, one of the first things you’ll notice is that he will naturally follow you around as if he’s already trained. While this behavior is adorable, it’s also unreliable and won’t last. As your puppy becomes more comfortable in his new environment, he’ll begin to explore further on his own. A 9-week-old German Shepherd is surprisingly fast and could easily run off if startled—across a road, towards a river, or into any number of potentially dangerous situations. He might run up to an unfriendly dog or act inappropriately around a smaller puppy. For his safety and the safety of others, always keep your puppy on a leash until you are 100% confident, he will stay by your side.
​
Always respect others who have their dogs on leashes as well. Your puppy might be friendly, but the other dog may not appreciate being approached, especially if your puppy jumps up on them. It’s important to teach your dog early on not to run up to strange dogs, as this behavior won’t be cute when he’s full grown and could lead to dangerous encounters. Even if your puppy is friendly, the other dog may not be.
​
The leash is more than just a way to keep your puppy secure—it’s an excellent training tool. Use it to teach commands like “come,” “pay attention,” “heel,” and “go around.” These skills are much easier to achieve when your dog is on a leash and paying close attention to you. Once your dog is reliably well-behaved on a leash, you can begin off-leash training in safe, controlled environments.
I do not recommend off-leash dog parks, as they can be a source of stress for puppies due to the unpredictable behavior of other dogs. There is often a lot of bad behavior at these parks that can negatively impact your puppy’s development.
